What are transite ducts? Transite ducts consist typically of 10- to 12-inch round PVC tubes or pipes that run under a concrete slab in the ground to provide heating and cooling to a house. Typical transite, or "in-slab" ductwork consists of a single long tube that runs the perimeter, along the outside walls. While most ductwork relies on upflow furnaces, which push air upward toward the ducts to heat the home, transite ducts, because they are located in the floor, rely on downflow furnaces, pushing air downward into the underground transite ducts. Why do transite ducts get so dirty? That these ducts are located underground makes them ripe for many problems. Though the ducts themselves are made of PVC, the elbows (for whatever reason) are made of metal, which, in the moisture-rich underground environment, leads them to rust. And often, as a result of this rusting, they separate. Once the elbows have separated, the ducts themselves are vulnerable to the entry of sand, soil, and most detrimentally, water. Also, because of their position in the floor (unlike traditional galvanized sheet-metal ducts, which are often situated in the ceiling), debris frequently falls into the vents or gets swept inside. And because all the vents are connected (rather than a trunk-and-branch system), something dropped or spilled into one vent can easily spread into the others. Further, the environment below ground is very damp, and that creates a haven for insects that favor a moist, cool environment. Our technicians have found all manner of insects, including centipedes and spiders, and even "balls of flies," dead and clustered together, during the cleaning of transite duct systems. By contrast, in typical sheet-metal ducts we find dust, debris, dander—dry stuff, basically—but in transite ducts, discoveries within tend to be much nastier, including mold. What is the best way to clean transite ducts? The location of transite ducts underground and the all-too-frequent separation of the elbows leaves the system vulnerable to penetration by sand, dirt, and water. This moist, muddy residue is impossible to clean with air pressure and suction alone (the primary method of most standard air duct cleanings) and requires more firepower, so to speak. Even when transite ducts are intact and the elbows are free from rust, because of the way the system is designed (a large, long pipe with holes in the top serving as vents), they are a challenge to clean effectively. In a standard air-pressure cleaning, with the technician on one end of the system, blowing to the other end where the vacuum is (with venting in between), the vacuum suction is severely diminished. Additionally, the debris being pushed from one end of the system toward the other is liable to simply fly out the other vents. Even with the vents covered, when only air pressure is utilized, the space between vents is great enough that some of it would stop short and come to rest in the middle, between the two vents. For these reasons, the recommended method of air duct cleaning on a transite duct system would be a high-level cleaning utilizing an extreme agitation tool, such as the Viper Clean Sweep or a cable brush down every vent. The technician would begin by finding the "end point" of the system, attaching his vacuum at that point, and covering every vent he is not working on. Then, starting at the other end of the system, he would insert the agitation tool and work the debris toward the vacuum, proceeding from one vent to the other in a systematic manner (again, leaving all vents covered except the one he is working on). At times it will be necessary to use a shop vac on some of the heavier debris (concrete-chunk remnants from construction, etc.) that tends to cluster immediately beneath the vents. A final note: if the system has been penetrated by water, which is a frequent occurrence, the water needs to be removed first before any cleaning can begin, and an assessment should be made for the presence of mold. A restoration company should be consulted, so that the water (and possibly mold) can be removed and the system repaired, or even replaced. Wanna dig deeper? Download our free tipsheet: 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring an Air Duct Cleaning Company. Download Tipsheet Many thanks to our technicians Roy S. and Ben S. for lending their expertise to this article.
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In northern climates your HVAC system may run for several hundred hours each year, drawing enormous volumes of air through your ductwork distribution system in the process. If this air were fresh there would be little cause for concern. But indoor air is far from pristine. In most homes, the air is heavily contaminated with dirt, dust, pet dander, pollen, mold spores, chemical traces from cleaning products, smoke from tobacco products, fumes from adjacent garages, factories or farms . . . the list of potential pollutants goes on and on. Theoretically, the air filters behind your intake registers should help remove these pollutants before they enter your HVAC system. But air filters won’t capture everything, especially if you’ve chosen to install cheap models that catch only the largest particles. As your heating and cooling system circulates the filthy air throughout your home, some of the pollutants it carries will inevitably be deposited inside your air ducts. Over time this particulate matter will build up, to the point where dust, dirt, and debris are stirred up inside your ducts every time your forced-air HVAC system is in operation. Heavily contaminated air then circulates through your home and your air ducts in a continuous loop, constantly replenishing itself by mixing with even more impurities harvested in your now-hopelessly dingy air ducts. And there’s another possible complication: moisture penetration. Dirty, neglected air ducts are more likely to develop leaks or cracks, and when this happens water can seep in and create chronically damp conditions that are perfect for mold, mildew, insect infestations, and bacterial growth. Grimy, wet air ducts are a breeding ground for unwanted biological invaders, adding yet more unsavory elements to the air you breathe indoors for 12-14 hours a day. The picture we’ve painted here is not a pretty one. But thankfully it is only a worst-case scenario and not an unavoidable catastrophe. If you have your air ducts professionally cleaned on a semi-annual basis, you can prevent the dust and dirt demons from possessing your HVAC system and corrupting its original purpose. Air Duct Cleaning: It’s a No-Brainer The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency lists indoor air contamination as one of its top five health concerns. The situation is especially dire in states like Minnesota, where windows are so often kept closed to keep the cold or hot air out. When you hire experts to clean your air ducts, you’ll benefit in a variety of ways. Here’s what you can expect when you let the professionals restore your ductwork to a spotless state through air duct cleaning. Improved health Air contaminated with dust, chemical traces, pet dander, mold spores, pollen, or bacteria can help to provoke asthma attacks and allergic reactions. If the original sources of the contamination are still present, duct cleaning won’t extinguish your indoor pollution problem completely, but it may help just enough to eliminate the most severe respiratory side effects. Less stress on your furnace and air conditioner Dirty ducts don’t allow for the smooth flow of air, which forces your heating and cooling equipment to work harder to get the job done. This extra stress and strain can lead to mechanical breakdowns and costly repairs, and it could shorten the lifespan of your furnace or air conditioner by several years. Reduced energy costs Furnaces and air conditioners straining to pull air through obstructed ducts will require a lot more gas and/or electricity to perform up to their normal standards. This can ramp your power and fuel bills up to unacceptable levels, but a good duct cleaning can cut your HVAC equipment’s workload down by several money-saving percentage points. Better air filter function Your HVAC air filter is supposed to be your last line of defense against indoor air pollution. But it won’t be able to do its job properly if the air passing through it is overly saturated with contaminants, as can easily happen when your ductwork is coated in filth. Cheap air filters won’t do much for you in any instance. But if you purchase a superior filter with a higher MERV rating, and choose the right air conditioner or furnace filter size (as there are plenty) so all air passes through the HVAC system, then after having your ducts cleaned you should notice a big change in the quality of your home’s air. Cleaner ducts for healthier, happier living Dirty ducts mean poor indoor air quality, which can damage your health and put the future of your HVAC system at risk. Unless you undertake a messy remodeling project, having your air ducts cleaned every other year should be sufficient to keep them in good condition. But if you’ve never had your ducts cleaned, the time to act is now, before another day passes. Whenever our technicians are conducting a furnace cleaning, or even an air duct cleaning, it is standard practice for them to assess the condition of the furnace flue for cleaning as well. Many customers, though familiar with the importance of furnace and air duct cleaning, are unaware that the furnace flue needs to be cleaned regularly as well—for reasons of unit efficiency and more importantly for carbon monoxide safety. What is a furnace flue? The furnace flue, sometimes referred to as the furnace chimney, is a roughly 4-inch pipe that funnels exhaust from the furnace and ushers it safely out of the house through the roof. (It’s worth mentioning that in homes newer than 2010, the unit would likely exhaust by way of a PVC “power vent,” not the conventional flue this article refers to.) The furnace flue is often housed in the same masonry chimney as the fireplace flue, but not always. The technician checks the flue by removing an access panel on the flue itself, or he creates an access point below, near the furnace. (He will clean from this same access point, and after the service, any access panel removed or point created will be safely reattached/closed.) There can also be indications in the furnace itself that the flue is dirty. When the technician finds rust scale or gas sediment inside the furnace, it’s a good sign that the flue itself is compromised, and that its buildup is getting inside the inducer motor, which then essentially “spits” it around the furnace. What do furnace flues get dirty with? Mostly what dirties furnace flues is, as indicated above, rust scale or gas sediment, which is created during the process of combustion. This sediment is the consistency of beach sand, and, left unchecked, it piles up and can clog the flue. The buildup, in sufficient amounts, can then work its way into the inducer motor in the furnace, causing it to malfunction and, in extreme cases, shut down. Various critters sometimes find their way into furnace flues as well, plugging it and potentially jamming the motor. Just a few days ago one of our technicians found a small bird jammed inside a furnace inducer motor, having found its way in through the flue—a messy and unhygienic scenario to be sure! Though in this case a furnace flue cap would likely have guarded against the bird’s entry, it is not a guarantee. Some types of very small or exceptionally flexible critters can squeeze themselves through the opening of even a well-made standard chimney cap. It is not the norm, but we’ve seen everything. What happens when the furnace flue is clogged? The biggest danger of a clogged furnace flue is carbon monoxide (CO). When the flue is plugged, pollutants generated during the process of combustion are unable to escape completely. These pollutants, including CO, will backdraft into the house, and this is of course very dangerous for you and your family, as the hazards posed to human health from CO are well known. All of this risk is of course easily minimized with regular maintenance and checks on your heating appliances and their associated flues, including regular furnace flue cleaning. In this case, a little prevention really does go a long way. Wanna learn more? Have a look at our Flue Cleaning service page. View Flue Cleaning Page Many thanks to our technician Roy S for providing the case notes and quotes for this article. If you came across this article as a result of an internet search, you may have noticed there aren't a lot of search results for "furnace duct cleaning." It’s not a conspiracy but rather a matter of diction: the more common term is “air duct cleaning.” The process is also sometimes referred to as “HVAC duct cleaning” or “vent cleaning.” Furnace duct cleaning—or air duct cleaning—is the process of removing contaminants and debris from the ductwork associated with the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) system. This ductwork is sometimes referred to as furnace ducts because they originate at the furnace—the heat source—and serve to distribute heated (or, in some cases, cooled) air throughout the building or home, exiting at the vents or diffusers. What is the process for furnace duct cleaning? There are a variety of methods for cleaning furnace ducts, but generally the process relies on a dual approach, referred to as the “push and pull method.” The first aspect relies on a powerful vacuum applied near the furnace to create negative pressure, or sucking in of the debris to a containment system, preferably off-site, such as a truck. The second aspect of the service involves the utilization of agitation equipment, such as pneumatic air whips or rotating brushes, which essentially jostle around inside the ducts and loosen any debris, which is then sucked up by the vacuum. Still have questions about the cleaning process or the various levels available? Visit our air duct cleaning service page. What is the difference between furnace duct cleaning and air duct cleaning? In short, nothing at all. Some companies that refer to their service as “furnace duct cleaning” rather than “air duct cleaning” may perhaps do so because they include the furnace as part of the duct cleaning process. Since the furnace and ductwork are all connected and continuously circulate air throughout the system, if one component is dirty and in need of cleaning, the other likely is too—so cleaning the furnace along with the furnace ducts is almost always the best approach (unless, as happens every so often, customers are having their ducts cleaned because they’re getting their furnace replaced). Always check with the company, though, to find out what components are included during the cleaning service, as it is not necessarily standard practice to include the furnace in an air duct cleaning without additional cost. Where can I find out more? Now familiar with the lingo, you’ll find a wellspring of information available in a search for “air duct cleaning.” Interested in finding out what tools are used during the process? Check out our blog article, Tools and Equipment Used During Air Duct Cleaning. Want to read about each of the specific levels of service available and the precise process it entails? Visit our air duct cleaning service pages. Considering having the service performed? Download our free tipsheet: 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring an Air Duct Cleaning Company. What is HVAC Cleaning? HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) cleaning involves the removal of dirt, debris, and contaminants from the individual components of a building’s HVAC system, either in a residential or commercial setting. In a residential setting, these components would likely include the furnace (including the blower wheel), supply and return ductwork, evaporator coil (A-coil), etc. Commercial components cleaned would include the air handling unit (AHU) or rooftop unit (RTU), supply and return ducts, coils, VAV boxes, supply diffusers and return grilles, etc. How is the HVAC System Cleaned? Each of the various HVAC components calls for a different method of cleaning. Air duct cleaning is typically accomplished with the application of high-pressured air and/or whips or brushes that physically sweep debris from the ducts, in combination with negative pressure in the form of a vacuum to capture debris and contain it off-site. Furnaces are typically cleaned using mostly air pressure, with some parts (e.g. flame sensor) being physically wiped down. For the evaporator coil, light brushing with air pressure (so as not to bend the delicate aluminum fins) and possibly the application of a cleaning solution is typical. In some cases, the coil may be removed completely and washed outside (a process that would command a higher labor cost). The outside AC condenser unit, which also requires routine maintenance, can be cleaned of leaves and other outdoor debris with the application of air pressure and water, often from a garden hose. The homeowner should make sure surrounding foliage is trimmed regularly. For commercial HVAC cleaning jobs, an on-site assessment will determine the most appropriate cleaning method, which, regarding the ducts, could involve anything from the use of air whips/power brushes and contact vacuuming to a physical crawl-through by the technician. Air handler components may be cleaned with high-pressured air, surface cleaning, or air whips, depending on their size and how much access is available. A walk-in handler would be cleaned using a pressure washer and wet-vac. Grilles, grates, and diffusers are usually hand-wiped and ideally degreased. Why is HVAC Cleaning Necessary? It’s all about air flow—to ensure proper operation and efficiency of the HVAC system and all of its parts. If the filter is dirty, air flow is restricted. If the blower wheel is dirty, air flow is restricted—you get the idea. If all the system components are clean (barring any repair issues), you can feel confident your system is running at top efficiency. In a commercial environment, again, having clean VAV boxes, coils, and dampers allows air to flow to its destination unhindered. But it’s also about indoor air quality. Air moving through a dirty HVAC system is going to pollute the indoor environment. To save your family (or your employees) the discomfort and ill effects of breathing contaminated indoor air, investment should be made in regular system cleaning. Additionally, when the visible components of the system (vent covers, grilles, grates, diffusers) sparkle, occupants can have confidence in the overall cleanliness of the HVAC system and the air it circulates. Many of us have probably experienced the unsettling feeling of wanting to hold our breath at the sight of blowing dust-bunnies clinging to filthy air vents! When Should the HVAC System be Cleaned? For commercial cleaning jobs, the suggestion would be every 5 to 10 years. Most commercial cleaning companies will send a technician to the property at no cost to assess the system and discuss project scope and overall cost. For residential jobs, the general guideline would be every one to three years, as well as after any disruptive event such as laying new carpet, polishing/sanding wood, remodeling (particularly if drywall is involved), etc. Basically, conditions that tend to generate debris would warrant more frequent HVAC cleaning. Or, in the frank words of one of our technicians, “If they’re running a cat hotel, they probably want to have their system cleaned yearly.” A good rule of thumb: if the appearance of the ceiling tiles, vents, or diffusers is unsightly, then it’s fair to question whether the cleanliness of the system is compromised and you should consider having it assessed for cleaning. How Much Does HVAC Cleaning Cost? Cost and quality will vary greatly among companies. For residential jobs, furnace cleaning will generally range from $50 to $500, with the (much) higher price range presumably including the evaporator coil—the cleaning of which can be quite labor intensive. For air duct cleaning, HomeAdvisor calculates the range nationally at between $120 and $675. Factors that increase the cost of the service would include having more than one system, the size of the home, and the level of service desired. The main thing to bear in mind when considering the cost of services is whether there may be any charges you haven’t considered, or, more nefariously, hidden costs. During your conversation with the company while you are in the consideration phase, ask questions designed to flesh out these possibilities, such as “Is there anything that may increase the cost of the service that I haven’t considered?” Or more directly, “Are there any hidden costs?” On the flip side, ask also if there are any discounts for first-time customers, subscribers to the company newsletter, online booking discount, etc. Many companies offer these types of incentives. Now that you’re familiar with HVAC basics, feel free to dig deeper by exploring some of our HVAC cleaning service pages, including a detailed description of the cleaning process and pricing. Many thanks to our technicians Roy S. and Ben S. for lending their expertise to this article. That is, your “other” chimney. Most homeowners do not realize that their water heater and most furnaces or boilers also have chimneys—more accurately referred to as flues. The purpose of the utility flue is to safely carry the byproducts of combustion out of the home. Both the flue and the chimney that houses it need to be routinely inspected and regularly maintained to ensure that they are dependably serving their intended purpose. Deterioration of either one may not be immediately obvious from the outside or at first glance with the naked eye. What’s the difference between a chimney and a flue? This can be a source of confusion, but the answer is simple: a flue is the duct or pipe that channels the byproducts of combustion (gases, soot, carbon monoxide, etc.) from the source of combustion (the appliance) to the outside atmosphere. The chimney is the external structure, usually masonry or stone, that houses the flue or flues, visibly peeking out above the roof line. There are many different appliances that require flues to vent, including furnaces, boilers, water heaters, and wood stoves, in addition to a traditional fireplace. A chimney can contain several flues, but no two appliances or fireplaces will share a flue, though they may connect at a point further removed from the source of combustion. (Sometimes customers calling a chimney sweep to book a cleaning will be confused by the fact that they are charged by how many fireplaces they have, not how many “chimneys” or flues. This is the reason—because each fireplace has its own flue.) Why do I need my flue cleaned? All flues, since they serve to vent harmful substances, need to be checked regularly to ensure their structural integrity, to clear any blockages, and to be cleaned of any debris or buildup. In a traditional fireplace flue, the buildup mainly consists of creosote. With oil-burning appliances, the buildup is caused mainly by soot, which needs to be regularly removed. Gas appliances are not as susceptible to soot buildup, as they tend to burn more cleanly, but they do produce sulfur, chlorine, and other acidic buildup, in addition to moisture, the combination of which causes corrosion. In addition to buildup, blockages are another important reason to have your flue cleaned. Blockages can result from leaves, sticks, and other debris falling into the chimney, and from birds and other wildlife building nests inside. Chimneys without caps are especially susceptible to these types of blockages. Another reason for blockage, though not as common, is through the deterioration, crumbling, or breaking down of the chimney’s interior structure over time. Any kind of blockage will hinder safe exit from your home of the byproducts of combustion, posing both a fire hazard and the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning, making regular cleaning and inspection critical. What is the process for cleaning a flue? A utility flue cleaning is similar to a fireplace flue cleaning (or chimney sweeping) and utilizes similar tools. Once access is gained to the flue by disconnecting the vent pipe from the burner, a vacuum is connected at the bottom to catch the loosened debris. The flue itself is often swept with a chimney cleaning rod and brush. In cases where where the flue enters a chase, which would involve a 90-degree bend and thus prevent usage of a rod, a flexible chimney cleaning system, such as the Viper GFK, may be utilized, or a tentacled air whip, such as the Viper Clean Sweep. These can easily maneuver around twists and turns, jostling debris loose as they go and helping to clear any blockages. The final step of the flue-cleaning process, at the hands of a diligent technician, would be to check for the presence of a flue cap and make a strong recommendation for one in the case of its absence. A flue cap, or chimney cap, is essential to protecting the integrity of the chimney, the flue, and their interior structure, and it will prevent most blockages. Look at it this way: lack of a chimney cap is akin to having a hole in your roof. So, what is best practice? Have your utility flues cleaned (or at least looked at) when you have your chimney swept, or at least once every two years. And show them how much you appreciate all they do for you by putting a cap on them! Note: most newer, high-efficiency furnaces and water heaters do not vent via a flue through the roof but rather are power-vented through PVC pipes that go straight out the side of the home. This type of venting is not the subject of this article. Wanna dig deeper? Download our free tipsheet: 5 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Chimney Cleaning Company. Download Tipsheet Many thanks to our technician Ben S. for lending his expertise to this article. What is an air filter? An air filter (or furnace filter) serves to stop dust, dander, and other particles from entering your furnace, and, by extension, from your air ducts and the rest of your home. The air that is moved by your heating and cooling system is circulated throughout your home several times a day. Housed in the filter compartment, and sandwiched between the end of the return duct and the blower compartment, the air filter keeps not only your HVAC system clean, but it also helps to keep your entire home clean by preventing contaminant buildup in the air ducts, which supply your household air. If your air ducts are dirty, some of that dirt necessarily will be contained in the indoor air you breathe daily. (Want to learn more about the process of air duct cleaning? Visit our air duct cleaning service page.) What options are available for air filters? The quality of air filters available varies greatly, and in general, you get what you pay for. A few different systems exist to rate the effectiveness of air filters, including MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) and FPR (Filter Performance Rating). MERV, which is industry-established, tends to be the most widely used. FPR was established by the Home Depot, and its numbers align fairly closely with those of MERV. Both systems are straightforward: the higher the number, the more effective the filter (the smaller the particles blocked). Some of the common contaminants that air filters are tested for include lint, pet dander, dust, pollen, dust mites, mold spores, and bacteria. So which one should you buy? Well, the least expensive (often fiberglass) filters can be had for as little as 50 cents or a dollar. Pass these up. They are generally not recommended, as they block only the largest of particles, allowing an unacceptable amount of debris to pass through. This brings us to two interesting paradoxes of air filters:
What is “filter bypass” and what can be done about it? A common issue that technicians observe in the field that is quite detrimental but relatively easy to fix is referred to as filter bypass. This is when dirt and debris sneak around your filter and into the A-coil and the rest of your furnace, the air ducts, and consequently, your home. This often happens when an ill-fitting or cheap furnace filter is used, or, in some cases, improper installation of the filter rack. To prevent this, ensure that the air filter you use fits snugly into the filter compartment. If it is too small, air (and debris) will simply go around the filter instead of through it. In the case of improper installation of the filter rack, re-installation may be necessary to provide the proper fit. One of the telltale signs of filter bypass issues in an HVAC system are supply ducts that are as dirty (or almost) as the return ducts. The air that enters the return ducts is unfiltered (remember, the air filter is positioned at the end of the return duct, before it enters the furnace) and therefore the return ducts are expected to be dirty, but the supply ducts, when the air is properly filtered, tend to be much less dirty. And there you have it. With a system that is so essential to your family’s comfort, and that typically is costly to repair or replace, having a few common-sense nuggets of wisdom to prevent unnecessary maintenance can only be a good thing. Wanna dig deeper? Download our free tipsheet: 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring an Air Duct Cleaning Company. Download Tipsheet Many thanks to our technician Ben S. for lending his expertise to this article. The blaring warnings. Several years ago, I was stunned when a friend told me her previous home had burned down because they had neglected to clean the dryer vent. Oblivious to what a dryer vent actually consisted of, I thought she meant the lint trap compartment. A year or so later, a firefighter on a courtesy visit to our home to look for potential hazards, when entering the laundry room, announced, “Dryer lint is the most combustible material in your home.” Without those two blaring warnings, I would have remained oblivious to the dangers of dryer lint, as I suspect many people do, based on the number of home fires that occur every year for that very reason. The US Fire Administration states that “2,900 home clothes dryer fires are reported each year and cause an estimated 5 deaths, 100 injuries, and $35 million in property loss,” and that the majority of clothes dryer fires are caused by clogged dryer vents. What you can do. Every time you dry a load of laundry, some of the lint from the clothes loosens. Though some of this loose lint is caught by the lint trap, some of it slips past (as evidenced by the clumps you’re likely to observe if you remove the lint trap and look underneath it) and enters the machine itself and the venting system. This renegade lint builds up over time, restricting air flow and creating a fire hazard. Here are some things you should do to keep yourself and your family safe, some obvious, some perhaps not so:
Some considerations. Consider having your dryer vent cleaned more frequently if the vent line has several turns, which would allow more opportunities for lint to become trapped, and additionally render an effective cleaning more difficult. You'll also want to do it more frequently if the outside vent is located on a floor other that where the dryer itself is located, which would indicate a longer run. Also, the more frequently you do laundry the more often you’ll want to have the dryer vent cleaned. (Want to learn more about the cleaning process itself? Visit our dryer vent cleaning service page.) Some signs that your dryer vent is in need of cleaning include the machine taking longer than usual to dry a load of laundry, large amounts of lint collecting in the lint trap and around the drum, clothes feeling hot to the touch after a cycle, and the outside vent flap not opening when the dryer is running (air flow should be pushing this open, so its failure to do so could signal a blockage). Finally, although do-it-yourself dryer vent cleaning tutorials abound on the internet, best to consider hiring a professional for the job. Their specialized tools successfully navigate 90-degree turns, jostle around inside the duct to loosen and break up lint, and blast debris toward the outside much more effectively than any high-powered leaf blower. So there’s your blaring warning. Tuck it inside your brain, and when the time comes, call a professional. The Process: in a Nutshell. The air duct cleaning process generally consists of 1) creating access points (holes) in the main trunk line for the insertion of tools, 2) placing a vacuum near the return plenum in order to create negative pressure and to contain the dust generated, and 3) employing various pneumatic tools inside the ductwork to jostle around and move any debris toward the containment system (vacuum). There are a variety of tools in each of these categories to help get the job done. Want to learn more about the process itself? Visit our air duct cleaning service page. Access tools Before the cleaning process can begin, the technician will need to gain access to the trunk lines. He’ll do this by creating holes (the minimum number and size necessary to accomplish an effective cleaning) in the ductwork. The size of the access point will depend upon the type of tool that’s going to be inserted. A 1-inch hole will suffice for most air balls and air whips. A 6-inch hole would be required to accommodate many rotary brush heads. A hole this size would also allow for the insertion of a standard-sized duct-cleaning vacuum hose. In order to create minor access points, the technician would likely utilize a drill with a one-inch Unibit or Vari-bit. For greater access, drill-powered or electric shears, or pneumatic cutters, may be utilized. Tin snips may be used to clean up some edges, if necessary. Once the cleaning is complete, the technician will seal the smaller access points with rubber duct plugs. Larger holes will be closed up with sheet metal patches sealed with foil tape or duct tape, with gasket tape being used on larger patches (mostly in a commercial environment). Cleaning toolsAir duct cleaning tools are many and varied but their general purpose is similar: to jostle, blow, spin, or whip around inside the duct, agitating debris and propelling it into the airstream and toward the containment system. Tools or nozzles are attached to long, flexible rods or cables that are fed into the ducts by the technician. Rotary brushes with firm but flexible nylon bristles spin around and sweep the sides of the ducts. A more gentle brush head with soft-poly bristles may be used for cleaning flex-duct or insulated ductwork. High-powered blow nozzles and air wands use high-pressured air to “air-wash” the register covers and the area immediately inside the vents, pushing debris toward the main line, where other tools coax it toward the vacuum. Air whips with plastic tentacles thrash aggressively against the sides of the ducts to loosen any debris, and with the aid of air blasts from their nozzles (reverse or forward), send it toward the containment system. Multiple-tentacled whips, such as the Viper Clean Sweepsystem or the Octopus Predator Whip, provide one of the most thorough cleanings available, as their many tentacles whip around in a rapid blur, contacting every square inch of the interior ductwork surface. (On watching these tools in action, the aggressive movements of the tentacles in every direction appear to be haphazard, but the result is anything but). Vacuum/containment systems and compressors The suction provided by vacuum (negative pressure) in concert with the air pressure produced by compressors provide the one-two punch of air duct cleaning. Power matters here—a truck-mounted vacuum and compressor-fed air whips are going to be far more effective, say, than your do-it-yourself leaf blower and a hand vac. Most duct cleaning companies rely on gas-powered, truck-mounted vacuums boasting suction power of up to 12,000 CFMs. When using this equipment, the technician will typically park as close to the home as possible and run the vacuum hose, about 6 inches in diameter, from the truck down to the furnace. With a truck-mounted vacuum, some of the power is lost in the hose length (suction power decreases the further you move away from its source), so typically, at the point of hookup, suction power is diminished to roughly 5-7000 CFMs, depending on the length of hose needed. This range is still plenty of power to provide good suction and result in a thorough cleaning. An alternative to truck-mounted systems are portable duct-cleaning vacuums. These are electric-powered and sit in a wheeled housing, allowing them to be moved fairly easily to where they’re needed. Portable vacuums can crank out up to 5000 CFMs, but the suction is provided much closer to the furnace than that of truck-mounted systems, so final suction power can be quite comparable between the two. Moreover, portable vacuums can be used in environments where truck-mounted equipment simply isn’t an option, such as when no parking is available, or in upper-floor dwellings. Necessary partners in duct cleaning to the vacuum are the compressors, which provide the air-pressure needed to power pneumatic cleaning tools such as air whips, air wands, air snakes, etc.—the real soldiers. Compressors are generally truck-mounted and generate at least 175 psi or greater. They can be gas or electric powered. Portable varieties are available, in cases where access for a truck would be limited, such as high-rise buildings or in commercial settings. Modern air duct cleaning tools are diverse and powerful, allowing for effective cleaning of air ducts in a variety of circumstances and settings. Not all tools will be appropriate in every setting, but a diverse arsenal in the hands of a skilled and dedicated technician will virtually guarantee the most effective cleaning possible. Wanna dig deeper? Download our free tipsheet: 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring an Air Duct Cleaning Company. Download Tipsheet Many thanks to our technician Ben S. for lending his expertise to this article. Your furnace is the command center of your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system. Its condition and cleanliness directly affect your indoor air quality and home comfort. Regular furnace cleaning and maintenance will ensure optimal performance. (Have any questions about the process? Visit our furnace cleaning service page for details.)
Aside from routine furnace cleaning, here are some circumstances that should prompt you to schedule one. 1. New Occupancy. When newly taking up residence in a house, what better way to make it your own than to remove from its innards any contaminants (dust, dander, debris, etc.) left behind by its former occupants.Unless you can be certain that a furnace cleaning was performed once the property was vacated, this is a no-brainer in terms of the ideal situation to warrant one. 2. Construction/Remodeling. Debris resulting from construction activity—especially Sheetrock or drywall dust—is notorious for its ability to cling to HVAC components and stubbornly work its way into the tiniest of crevices, choking air flow and decreasing efficiency. The fine, chalk-like dust disseminates ominously (cue deadly horror-movie fog), settling in as a soft white powder over everything it once hovered above. Do yourself and your home a favor by factoring a furnace and air duct cleaning into your remodeling budget. 3. Pets. How many times have those of us with pets plucked coarse strands of their hair out of our food or off our tongues, or dabbed them from our eyes? Pet hair and dander tend to be ubiquitous, and if you have pets, you know that their fluffy cuteness gets everywhere. Your HVAC system is not spared. When furnace components become clogged with debris, including pet hair and dander, the unit has to work harder to achieve the desired ambient temperature, squandering energy and money. 4. Dirty Air Ducts. All of the components of your HVAC system are connected and work harmoniously together to keep your home comfortable and climate-controlled. Because none of them work independently of the others, when one component is dirty, likely the others are too. So if your air ducts are dirty, your furnace could probably use a cleaning as well. Many companies perform furnace cleanings as part of an air duct cleaning, and some do so only with higher-level services. If you’re spending the money to clean your air ducts, best to fork over the bucks to have your furnace cleaned as well. 5. The Mere Passage of Time . . . Let’s face it—there’s lots of stuff floating around our homes—everyday household dust, pollen, dander, and other irritants—and all that unpleasantness has to settle somewhere. Just like the tiny specks and floaties would pile up if you never dusted your home, so will they accumulate in your furnace if it is not cleaned. Help your furnace to do the job it was meant to do by keeping it clean, and it will reward you with greater productivity and job satisfaction. Okay—improved efficiency and cleaner indoor air. Wanna dig deeper? Download our free tipsheet: 5 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Furnace Cleaning Company. |
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April 2022
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